32/365: Pas Zita

On the door of Baisogala's one and only restaurant, Pas Zita, is the opening times. Nigh on every day apart from Sunday's, it is open from 10:00am to 5:00pm. What the door says and what is the reality, however, are two different things. 

I waddled down yesterday (Saturday) to find it was closed, much to my disappointment. Today, upon seeing that it was "free cepeliniai for seniors" day on their Facebook page, I knew I had to get in early. You see, Pas Zita, like many village canteens around the world is the sort of place to close when the last customer has left. In a town like Baisogala, where there are less than 1,700 people, footfall quickly dies down after the lunch time rush. And if you're not quick, you'll miss it altogether. 

The hearty working class staple of the masses - cepelinai.

At bang on 12:00pm I pulled on the door that yesterday was locked, and found myself in this quintessential Lithuanian canteen. The entrance has a number of coat hooks to hang the vast number of layers everyone wears this time of year to counter the arctic conditions, -17C at the time of my leaving the flat. 

It's my third time here (out of about a dozen attempts mind you), so I know the drill. Up to the bar where I order a charcho (Georgian soup, popular all around Lithuania however) and cepelinai with meat, the hearty grated potato dumplings which Lithuanians the world over consider their national dish. In tourist restaurants in Vilnius, these are turned into gimmicks - huge monstrosities to advertise on their menus. Here in the village though, they are a humble working class meal for the masses. It's a Sunday and seniors get free cepelinai today, but I do see a few workers come in for their daily lunch too. It's quick, efficient, and hits the spot. 

Charchio - the Georgian traditional food famous in Lithuania. Rice, meat, spicy broth... what more do you need on a winter's day?

In the depth of winter, a meal like this is serious sustenance and with a belly full of warm, filling food I go out for a pleasant afternoon walk. It is cold of course but the sun is out, glistening on the snow. My life is content in this moment and my day complete. I look forward to my next meal at Pas Zita when I'm next in Baisogala, if I hit the lunch rush that is.